Eva Travels

City guide · Portugal

Porto and the Douro Valley

Porto is a granite city stacked above a river, with tiled churches, steep lanes and the port wine lodges across the water. Upstream, the Douro Valley is one of Europe's great train rides.

Getting there

Porto is about three hours from Lisbon by fast train, which makes the two cities an easy pairing for a week. Long-distance trains arrive at Campanhã station, east of the centre. From there a short connecting train or the metro takes you into town. São Bento station, right in the centre, handles suburban and regional trains, including the Douro line.

Two days in Porto

Day 1: the old centre

  • Look inside São Bento station, whose entrance hall is lined with blue-and-white tile panels.
  • Walk up to the cathedral terrace for views over the roofs, then down the stepped lanes to the Ribeira riverfront, part of the UNESCO-listed historic centre.
  • Cross the upper deck of the Dom Luís I bridge on foot for the classic view back over the city.
  • Finish in Vila Nova de Gaia, on the south bank, where the port lodges offer tours and tastings. Most need booking in busy periods.

Day 2: west to the sea

  • See the tiled facades of churches such as Carmo and Santo Ildefonso.
  • Visit the Clérigos tower, or the well-known bookshop nearby, which uses timed, ticketed entry.
  • Head west by tram or bus along the river to Foz do Douro, where the river meets the Atlantic, for a sea-front walk at sunset.

The Douro Valley by train

The Douro line runs east from Porto, following the river for much of its length through terraced vineyards. The landscape is part of the Alto Douro Wine Region World Heritage Site.

StopWhy go
Peso da RéguaThe main town of the valley, with a wine museum and river cruises
PinhãoA small village surrounded by vineyards; its station has tiled panels of the harvest
PocinhoEnd of the line; quieter, wilder scenery on the upper river

For the best views, sit on the right-hand side heading east, which faces the river for most of the route. Regional trains on this line are usually unreserved, so arrive at São Bento in good time on weekends and in summer. A day trip to Pinhão and back is possible, though an overnight stay in the valley is more relaxed.

Harvest season: the grape harvest runs roughly from September into October. It is a beautiful time to go, and also the busiest. Book river cruises and quinta visits well ahead and check what each estate offers.

Where to stay

Ribeira and the streets around São Bento are central but steep and busy. Baixa and the area near Avenida dos Aliados are flatter and well linked by metro. Staying in Gaia gives you the city view, at the cost of a climb or a cable car back up.

Practical tips

  • Porto is hilly and the cobbles are uneven. Flat shoes with grip help.
  • The metro links the airport with the centre, and Andante cards cover metro, many buses and suburban trains.
  • Rain is common outside summer. A light waterproof is more useful than an umbrella in the wind off the river.
  • Opening hours for towers, churches and lodges vary by season. Check each official site before you go.